Más Que Un Club

Have I gone to the dark side? Forsaken all that is holy in American life and traded in an allegience to football for futbol? No. However, it has been fun to gain an appreciation for futbol while at the same time defending, arguing, and teaching about American Football (e.g. despite notions to the contrary, the punt returner is not the best, but, is in fact, the worst position in all of sports -- those with doubts need only watch this). I have come to appreciate the fluidity of soccer, although games can at times be mind numbing. It also takes a lot of persuasion to convince people that a game that stops every 3 to 6 seconds is physically straining. As Dan Carr noted, the best analogy to help futbol fans understand football is to think of it as a giant chess match, as a thinking man's game. Whereas futbolers run around constantly, hoping to get lucky, football teams work together to execute meticulously orchestrated plays, often working to set up plays two, three, four plays, or even quarters, in advance. Defenses try to out-smart the offense. I concede futbol has the fluidity and improvisation of a John Coltrane jam session, but football has the complexity and depth of a Beethoven symphony.

Futbol does, however, have a much richer history than American football and has occupied a role in society that American football could never dream of emulating (despite Raiders and Eagles fans half-hearted attempts). Clubs have historically been just that -- clubs -- and not until recently, huge entrepreneurial enterprises. A rich and sometimes violent past is put into perspective with the realization that clubs were formed, made up of, and took on the persona of their supporters. Thus, Glasgow's Celtic became the champions and social outlet for Glasgow's Irish Catholic working class immigrants while Rangers became the bastion for the nationalist anti-Catholic Anti-Irish population in Glasgow. Certain clubs have despicable histories, having been the place for people to voice opinions few can praise. A club like Chelsea has a right-wing Antisemitic past, and to an extent, present, which includes fans making "Shhh" sounds, imitating the the sound of gas at Nazi concentration camps. Other clubs have laudable histories they can be proud to stand on. And standing and shoulders above the rest, is FC Barcelona.

Futbol Club Barcelona embodies what professional sports franchises should be. FC Barcelona was the only futbol club in the entire world not to display corporate sponsorship on their shirts. They would not even entertain an offer until 2003. This changed in 2006. Remarkably, the club turned down lucrative offers that could have brought in tens or even hundreds of millions of dollars to instead display UNICEF on their jerseys. Moreover rather than receive payment for this endorsement, they DONATE nearly $2,000,000 a year to UNICEF! FC Barcelona was the only place during Franco's reign that Anti-Franco, anti-fascist, and pro-Catalan sentiments could be voiced. They also had to fight the fact that Franco's Real Madrid was financed by the state. The club has been a refuge for Catalan culture and leftist belief in Spain. This leftist sentiment transcends mere nostalgia and is manifest in the fact that the club is a true collective -- season ticket holders vote on the club's administration; nationally televised presidential debates decide who will run the club, and the club must answer to its fans (ticket holders, for a rough comparison, think the Green Bay Packers, although this does no justice to FC Barcelona). Historically they have had no problem getting rid of players that fans feel are not giving 100%, even when those players are their stars. And get this, the most visited art museum in Barcelona is not, as one might expect, the Picasso gallery, or any number of other impressive institutions, it is the museum at the football club which houses, maintains, and displays an impressive art collection. Finally, despite the Spain's violent history, Barcelona fans have never exhibited the vitriol or violence of other European futbol fans. Thus, Barcelona's motto, más que un club, "more than a club," makes perfect sense.

In conclusion, there is no need to fear Europe has brainwashed a love of football from my brain, or that I am now in jeopardy of joining the legions of hooligan fans. I still deplore the "everyone wins" attitude of American soccer that disregards the game's score and refuses to teach heading. Upon return to the US I won't be rushing out watch DC United or the Galaxy but will savor having regular access to football and basketball (college and high school). I have though, come to appreciate futbol more than I ever thought I would and I enjoy sitting in giant socialist-era hotel restaurants or small Yugoslav corner places and watching futbol with legions of Macedonian fans. And now, when I'm invariably asked who my club is, I can proudly respond: Barcelona!



(Thanks to Franklin Foer's How Soccer Explains the World, Alek, and Ronan)

Macedonia Slideshow

Kacey worked hard to put together this slideshow of pictures we've taken over the last year. The pictures are set to a song by Toshe -- who was a national hero and pop star who was killed in a car accident two years ago. Enjoy!

**CLICK HERE FOR SLIDESHOW**

Happy Halloween!

This weekend Tearce celebrated Halloween for the first time. As I approached the school on Friday I could hear the excitement coming through every open -- and closed -- window. The students had been waiting all week, and finally the day arrived. The door to the gym was opened about 97 times and curious eyes, outlined in black and white face paint, peaked in as the English teachers and I prepared for the party. The Macedonian students have their own holidays in which they dress in costume, however for most of the Albanian and Turkish students this was the first time in their lives they've had a reason to "dress up". Much explanation was required throughout the week to ensure the students understood the concept of a "costume" as many of them simply thought it meant they needed to wear their nicest clothes, however it was evident they finally caught on to the idea as princesses, zombies and monsters poured in as the clock clicked over to 1:00.

Bobbing for apples, carving pumpkins and "mummy wrap" were just three of the many games students could choose from throughout the party. School parties such as this are extremely rare, if present at all, throughout Macedonia. Every element was planned in advance, even down to lines taped on the floor to designate where students needed to stand to wait for each game. However even with this, much explanation was needed as students have absolutely no concept of a "line" and seemed to not understand how to stand on the tape. The festivities finally commenced though and it was apparent through shining eyes and wide smiles that the day would never be forgotten.

On Saturday, another party was offered at the American Corner for kids from Tetovo. Again, the children could barely contain their excitement and showed up in costume anywhere from 45 to 30 minutes early. First 7 to 11 year olds came, followed by 3 to 6 year olds. Conor and two other Volunteers came to help with this party which again turned out to be a success. I am also very grateful to the English teachers, our friend and tutor Alek, as well as two high school girls from Club GLOW that volunteered their time to help with the parties.

School Excursion

Yesterday my school organized an "excursion" on the mountain just behind the village. We spent several hours there picnicking and playing games, and at one point I was approached by a crowd of students wanting an "interview". Unfortunately in this video you can't see the large group that surrounded me, but I smile when I think of how creative they were! Several children were holding imaginary cameras and big microphones like the paparazzi. What a great way to practice English!

interview

brothers

roasting chestnuts

Beach Boys Kosovo

Looks like these guys had a little time on their hands --

Click Here for Beach Boys Kosovo

Kacey's Club Glow

A while back Kacey wrote about her experience at the Girls Leading Our World summer camp. Building off the momentum they generated at camp Kacey and the eleven girls from Tetovo who attended the camp have started a Club Glow here in Tetovo. The girls went to every high school in town to recruit other girls before their first meeting last week. At their first meeting over 60 girls showed up! I'm posting a link to an article a local newspaper ran about club (translation below).


Club Glow Newspaper Article


American Corner Tetovo in cooperation with the U.S. Embassy in Macedonia and students of all secondary schools founded Tetovo girls club "Glow Glub. The purpose and mission of this club is to work and develop activities to make women a key factor in society. With the motto "Girls lead our world" they intend to work in various activities planned throughout the next year. "American Experience, in English and led by an American appropriation will enable the language and skills relevant to women was a relevant factor in society", said the coordinator of American Corner, Gim Solomon, adding that the club is led by Kacey Molloy, Peace Corps representative to the U.S. in Macedonia. He explained that girls have now formed the different departments that will enable the functioning of the "Club Glow", while the day of establishment have taken part about 70 girls. Participants of the club say they will be in trend with the world and will work with commitment, to become the online voice of civil society. "Experience we received during the multi-ethnic summer camp, in Pelister, want to share with other girls in Tetovo. Based on our other motto 'Be a woman, be yourself' hope to achieve our mission to deliver awareness and breaking of more than stereotypes already known about the female world, "said Vlora Memedi, one of the founders of this club. Meanwhile, spokesperson of the "Club Glow" says Tetovo is now connected with other clubs in Macedonia and throughout the world. "All girls together aim to develop the natural potential that lies in Tetovo young women by providing them with necessary knowledge to become active leadership in society. All this being carried out through training, construction of personality, leadership profile, the cultivation of team work, problem-solving current and cultivation of creative skills, "said Rexhepi Arjeta, the department responsible for public relations in "Club Glow" Tetovo.

Tetovo, Macedonia

We thought we'd share some short videos of where we live. The following three are of the green market (pazar in Macedonian/treg in Albanian) here in Tetovo. (I must apologize in advance for the shaky camera; I tried to keep it steady while walking but obviously I need more practice.)











A short clip of one of the busy intersections in town:





The following two videos are of our apartment. We have a great place with basically all the amenities we had at home -- nothing like what we pictured when joining the Peace Corps, but we can't complain!




You can see inside our apartment by clicking the following link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1u-YzSy_28



*Stay tuned for more videos of the village Kacey works in and the municipality and NGO where Conor works!